Words and Photos by Henrylito D. Tacio
I never imagined Siargao would pull me in. Friends had mentioned it in passing—an island of waves, coconuts, and carefree wanderers—but it never made my bucket list. It was simply one of those places other people dreamed about.
Then one night, while watching Paul Soriano’s surf‑romance film, I felt something shift. The screen glowed with turquoise waters and silhouettes of surfers dancing with the Pacific. I found myself wishing—almost aching—to be transported to that island where time seemed to slow down and the ocean dictated the rhythm of life.
The universe must have been listening. Days later, a private message popped up from my sister, Marilou Eplite, who now lives in Florida. She was coming home and wanted to visit Siargao. Would I join her? The question felt less like an invitation and more like destiny tapping me on the shoulder.
Soon enough, we were boarding an early morning flight from Davao to Siargao. The plane was packed, and what surprised me most was the crowd: nearly 80% were foreigners. A German lady seated near me leaned over and said, “I read about Siargao in one of our magazines in Europe. It is heavily promoted, along with Cebu and Palawan.”
When I asked if she had heard of Davao or Samal, she shook her head. It was a reminder of how travel fame works—some places explode into global consciousness, while others quietly wait their turn.
Arrival in Paradise
Touching down in Siargao felt like stepping into a postcard. The air was warm and salty, the sky impossibly blue, and everywhere—everywhere—were coconut trees swaying like welcoming dancers. The island seemed to hum with a gentle energy, as if whispering, You’re here. Slow down.
Siargao, shaped like a teardrop, spans 437 square kilometers. Its eastern coastline is a mosaic of reefs, sandy beaches, and small points carved by the Pacific’s relentless breath. Europeans once called it Isla de las Palmas because of its endless palms. Locals, however, named it siargaw, after a mangrove species that thrives in its brackish waters. Today, the island is celebrated worldwide.
But Siargao is more than a destination. It is a mood, a lifestyle, a gentle persuasion to live differently.
Cloud 9: The Wave That Started It All
Surfing is Siargao’s heartbeat. Even if you don’t surf, you feel it—the pull of the ocean, the thrill of watching silhouettes glide across waves that rise like liquid mountains.
The island’s surfing season peaks from August to November, when the southwest monsoon brings offshore winds. Cloud 9, the most iconic surf spot, is legendary for its thick, hollow tubes. In 1995, Surfer magazine listed it among the “Ten Best Surf Trips of All Time.” The wave was discovered in the late 1980s by traveling surfers, and American photographer John Seaton Callahan named it after a chocolate bar he was eating at the time.
Today, Cloud 9 is home to the annual Siargao Cup, drawing surfers from around the world. If you’re not ready to ride the waves, the three‑level viewing deck offers a front‑row seat to the spectacle. Watching experts carve through the water is hypnotic—like witnessing a dance choreographed by the ocean.
For beginners, Jacking Horse is the gentler alternative. Its waves are kinder, perfect for first‑timers who want to feel the thrill without the intimidation.
Magpupungko Rock Pools: Nature’s Bathtubs
About 45 minutes from General Luna lies Magpupungko, a coastal wonder that reveals its magic only during low tide. Limestone formations frame natural tidal pools—clear, blue, and shimmering like glass. The pools feel like nature’s bathtubs, carved meticulously by time and tide.
A massive boulder perched on a flat rock gives the place its name. From afar, it resembles a giant sitting guard over the coast. Cliff‑jumping spots dot the area, offering adrenaline for those who crave it. For everyone else, simply wading through the pools feels like entering another world.
The Coconut Forest: A Sea of Green
Siargao has the most coconut trees per square meter in the Philippines. The Coconut Forest—often photographed from the “top of the road”—is a sweeping panorama of green fronds stretching endlessly. Standing there, you feel small, humbled by nature’s abundance.
Another photogenic stretch lies along the long road leading to the north. Here, coconuts flank both sides like soldiers guarding a tropical kingdom.
Sugba Lagoon: A Slice of Emerald Calm
Sugba Lagoon, located on the northwest coast, is one of Siargao’s most beloved gems. Reaching it requires an hour‑long boat ride through mangrove channels and quiet waters. The lagoon itself is part of a 4,000‑hectare sanctuary, though the visitor area is modest—just enough space for people to enjoy without overwhelming the environment.
A wooden diving board invites brave souls to leap into the emerald water. My sister and I opted for kayaking, gliding across the calm surface as mountains and mangroves framed the horizon. Paddle boards, canoes, and snorkelling gear are also available, making it a playground for water lovers.
Maasin River: Swing Into Adventure
A short ride from General Luna brings you to Maasin River, famous for its bent coconut tree with a rope tied to it. Visitors swing out and plunge into the 60‑foot deep water—a simple joy that feels like childhood rediscovered. The river’s calm, jade‑colored water adds to the charm.
Island Hopping: Naked, Daku, and Guyam
Siargao’s island‑hopping trio is iconic. Naked Island is exactly what its name suggests—a bare sandbar with no trees, no huts, no shade. Just pure white sand surrounded by blue. It’s raw, minimalistic beauty.
Daku Island, the largest of the three, is a barangay with residents who welcome visitors warmly. Its surf breaks and long beach make it ideal for swimming and lounging.
Guyam Island has two personalities: a rocky side with strong currents and a sandy side that feels like a postcard come to life. Shallow waters, coconut trees, and a serene vibe make it a favorite for sunset lovers.
Kawhagan Island: A Bonus Paradise
Not part of the usual island‑hopping itinerary, Kawhagan Island was a delightful surprise after our Sugba Lagoon trip. Towering palms, powdery white sand, and crystal‑clear waters create a scene so picturesque it feels unreal. I captured some of my favorite photos of my sister here—her silhouette framed by palms and sea.
Sohoton Cove: A World Within a World
Ranked by TripAdvisor as Siargao’s top attraction, Sohoton Cove is actually part of the Bucas Grande Islands. Spanning over 600 hectares, it is an intricate network of karst hills, lagoons, caves, and beaches. Accessible only during low tide, the cove feels like a secret world.
During July to August, stingless jellyfish appear in the lagoon—gentle creatures that glide like floating pearls. Swimming among them is surreal, a moment that stays with you long after you leave.
Mangrove Forest: A Living Sanctuary
Siargao boasts the largest mangrove forest reserves in Mindanao. The ecosystem is alive with endemic species—saltwater crocodiles, marine turtles, and even dugongs. Exploring the mangroves feels like entering a quiet cathedral built by nature, where every rustle and ripple hints at life beneath the surface.
The Spirit of Siargao
What sets Siargao apart is its purity. No loud beach parties. No aggressive vendors. No flashy commercialism. As Jasper Ribbens of The Traveling Dutchmen puts it, “The island is a place of purity and simplicity. No cheesy restaurants, no tacky shops, and no crowded watering holes.”
Siargao invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and reconnect—with nature, with people, with yourself.
Leaving, Yet Not Really
When our trip ended, I felt something unexpected: readiness. Not to leave, but to return. Siargao had seeped into my imagination, my senses, my memory. It was no longer just a place I visited—it was a place I would carry with me.
And now, I am ready to go back anytime.—###
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